Or perhaps you already bought a pair of clippers, but you are disappointed in the results. After all, that cheap pair of clippers is great for the first few minutes, but as it runs and gets hot, it’s not pleasant for you or your dog.

What if you made a one-time purchase of good pet clippers and did it yourself? There are a number of different brands on the market, but one of the most important features to look for is one with a powerful motor. If you have a dog with thick and / or matted fur, this will be even more important. Trying to shave your dog with weak clippers will simply give you a pair of hot hands and a great deal of frustration.

When it comes down to it, you only have a few brands with the appropriate amount of power to get the job done. These are made from Andis and Oster. These powerful, single-speed clippers can produce up to 3,000 strokes per minute and are reasonably quiet so they are less likely to scare your dog. If you choose to go with a two-speed model you can get up to 3,500 strokes per minute. They are also designed to stay cool when running for longer periods of time.

It can be painful for both you and your dog to use pet clippers that get too hot. Not only can they become too hot for your hands, imagine what it feels like for your dog. Another option is to have cordless dog clippers. They can run for roughly 30 minutes on a charge and but are generally not as powerful as the plugged-in version. As far as blades go, the higher the blade number, the closer the cut.

Brushing your dog can be a hindering task. No matter how many times you brush, the fur just never stops coming out. After much research I have found the best dog grooming brush. It is called the Kong Zoom Groom Brush.

These brushes are made from a flexible rubber material, brightly colored and shaped like a dog. Easy to spot when you go searching through a pet store for one or even easier to spot in that dark closet at home. Each brush is color coded, Pink is for short fur and sensitive skin, Purple is for longer fur and thick coats and Blue is for seasonal shedding and regular grooming. This rubbery brush will help condition your animal’s skin as it massages at the same time. Only the best dog grooming brush will massage your dog because this will help loosen up the animal fur, making it easier to collect.

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The Kong Zoom Groom Brush is designed to attract loose pet hair like a magnet, all the while your dog is being massaged and in the end it will stimulate capillaries and natural oils for a shiny healthy coat. This brush also works when giving your dog a bath, just massage the dog shampoo onto your dog; this will help your dog get a deeper cleaning. These brushes work especially well with medicated shampoos. Since it is made out of rubber getting it wet is perfectly fine. These easy to use dog brushes are only 4 1/4″ L and 2 1/4″ W the perfect size for any hand. The best part of this brush is the clean up, just give the brush a little flick and the fur will easily drop off into your wastebasket. These brushes can be found in pet stores and online. Kong Zoom Groom Brush is great for grooming and shampooing your dog. This is the best dog grooming brush around.

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During my years of dog grooming in Pepperell MA, I’ve had many customers who’d say they’d love to be able to cut their dogs’ nails themselves. They’re hesitant to try, though, for fear of hurting their dog, or because their dog is too difficult to hold still. I thought that I’d try to give a simple explanation of how to cut your dog’s nails safely and with control.

You’ll need, at the least, a pair of properly-sized nail clipper and a leash and collar that you can fasten to a secure place (ideally, near a wall or a large piece of furniture like a couch), and maybe some quick-stop powder in case there’s any bleeding. If your dog gets unusually disagreeable, you can also invest in a muzzle. These are all cheap items you can find at any local pet-supply store.

You’re going to use the wall or couch or whatever as a barrier to keep your pet stationary while you cutting nails. The idea is that you use your own body to secure your dog against the wall, giving them no wiggle-room for evasive maneuvers.

I want you to keep the clippers in your outside hand and turn your hips against your dog’s ribs so that you’re both facing the same direction. Then grab the dog’s outside foot with your free (inside) hand. You should be pressing the length of your arm along the length of the dog’s foreleg to keep it stationary while maintaining a good grip on the foot. Leverage!

Now find the nails with you foot-holding hand using your only thumb and forefinger. You can do this! Be sure to pull all the fur back away from the nails so you have a clear view.

Wiggle you index-finger under the nail. You should be able to feel a sharp V-shaped edge. That V is your safety-margin. If the nails are all black, that V will be the only guidance you’ll have. Don’t cut past that point! You’ll more than likely cut the quick, giving your dog a painful sting. If your dog’s nails are clear, you’ll have an easier time recognizing the pink where the quick starts. Either way, to prevent an error, place a knuckle of your index-finger (the paw-holding hand) against the nail right before the end of the V, and keep it tight as a marker. This way the nail clippers won’t slide past that point when you make the cut. Now, do this again for every nail.

Congratulations! You’ve done the first foot! Each of the other feet will be a similar process. Each time, your first goal is to get into a comfortable position where your body gently pins your dog to the wall while your hand grips the foot and your arm acts as control and leverage to keep the whole dog steady.

For the inside front foot, reach over the shoulder with your free hand. You might need to stand, with both knees securing the dog at the ribs.

For the rear outside leg, hook your arm between and under the rear legs. Grasp the paw, use your arm (underneath) and your shoulder/chest (from the outside) to hold the dog upright and steady.

The inside rear leg is always the toughest. Here again, you might want to stand with knees against the dog, and gently pull the paw upwards. To keep the dog steady here, you’ll press the elbow of your nail-clipping arm against the dog from the side opposite your knees. Alternatively, you could reach under the dog to grasp the foot, and use your inside elbow to push upwards to help support the dog.

With some practice you’ll have these moves and techniques mastered easily!

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Husky

My son, Thomas, asked if I would post this article for him.

By Thomas Hardee

Some people may say that trimming a Siberian Huskies’ coat will help them stay cool. This is not true. The outer coat is a barrier to all sorts of things. It protects them from bugs such as insects, mites, and parasites.

If you go to a professional groomer, the groomer may even shave the dog without your consent, while others will say not to shave the dog.

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By shaving a husky, you are removing the outer coat which when growing back after being shaved may grow in a different color, may cause sunburn on the dog, and, may ruin the dog’s coat.

Despite what you might think the outside coat actually protects the dog from harmful rays and keeps it cool. All in all, shaving a Siberian Husky may cause all sorts of problems and does not keep the dog cool.

Please feel free to leave comments to encourage this young author to learn and grow as a writer.

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